What is a Raised Bed Garden?
A Raised Bed Garden is a garden that has permanent beds and paths with the soil surface higher than the surrounding terrain. The beds are generally 3' - 5' wide and worked from both sides. The beds are never walked upon and the soil doesn't get compressed. The sides of the beds can be of earth or supported by wood (not treated), stone, bricks or other suitable material. The paths are treated in a number of ways, mulched, stoned, paved or planted in grass or other ground cover. The soil of beds is high in organic matter and develops a rich structure with an abundant earthworm population that keeps the soil light and aerated. Crops are easily rotated yearly between the beds with companion planting in mind to reduce disease and insect problems.
Advantages
- Solves Soil Problems
- Lightens heavy soils and enriches sandy soil
- Reduces surface crusting and run-off
- Lightens heavy soils and enriches sandy soil
- Soil Warms Up Faster in the Spring
- Allows earlier planting
- Lessens transplant shock
- Allows earlier planting
- Deep Cultivation
- Better drainage with less disease
- Deeper root zones lead to higher yields and drought tolerance
- Better drainage with less disease
- Space Saver
- Row gardens are 1/3 garden and 2/3 paths while raised bed gardens are 2/3 garden and 1/3 paths
- Beds can be intensively planted
- Row gardens are 1/3 garden and 2/3 paths while raised bed gardens are 2/3 garden and 1/3 paths
- Time Saver
- Less and faster weeding
- No rototilling, earthworms do the work for you
- Soil is not compacted by foot traffic
- Less and faster weeding
- Money Saver
- Less fertilizer, less pesticides, less soil amendments and less water because garden paths are never treated
- Less fertilizer, less pesticides, less soil amendments and less water because garden paths are never treated
- Better Insect and Disease Control
- Soil organic matter remains high leading to better water retention and less plant stress
- Floating row covers are easier to utilize
- Beneficial insects are attracted to the micro-climate present in an intensively planted bed
- Rich soil promotes beneficial microbial life resulting in higher fertility and increased disease and insect resistance
- Soil organic matter remains high leading to better water retention and less plant stress
Constructing a Raised Bed Garden
- Cultivate to 8" entire garden area with a shovel or rototiller.
- Mark off beds.
- Beds should be 3'-5' wide and not longer than an easy walk around.
- Beds should run perpendicular to a sloped terrain.
- If located on a flat terrain an east to west orientation allows for taller plants to be situated along the northern edge and not shade smaller plants.
- Beds can be rectangular and placed in rows or just about any shape that is desired.
- Some are planted like a wheel or in curves for visual appeal.
- Beds should be 3'-5' wide and not longer than an easy walk around.
- Spread soil amendments in the marked off beds.
- Add compost, ashes and manure, then as indicated by a soil test, lime, bone meal, blood meal, greensand or other amendments as required.
- Shovel 4"-6" of the surface soil from the path area and spread on the amended beds. This lowers the paths and raises the beds.
- Cultivate the bed to incorporate the soil amendments then rake smooth and level.
- Create the sides of the bed with a gradual slope of earth or construct the sides of wood, stone, bricks.
- Rake the paths smooth and finish with mulch, ground cover, stones or pavers.
- Fence in the garden if wildlife is a problem.
- Plan on paper the general location and types of plants to be planted. Save design for next year's crop rotation.
- Plant seeds and seedling per design.
- As the plants grow, cover garden beds with a thin layer of weed free compost to keep down weeds and serve as mulch to conserve soil moisture and as a mild fertilizer.
- With a swan neck hoe, periodically skim through the garden cutting small weeds from their roots and keeping the garden from becoming over-run. Hand-pull any large weeds.
- At the end of the season remove healthy dead plants and throw on the compost pile. Unhealthy Plants discard in the trash.
- The following spring, cultivate the beds using a turning fork. Do not turn the soil only "pop" gently. This retains the soil structure, microorganisms and earthworm tunnels.
- Top-dress with an inch of weed free compost then plant as per new design.
As the years pass, the worm population and beneficial microbe population should increase and eventually the bed will possess a fertile, friable and organically rich soil .









