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Compost is a mixture of decomposed vegetative matter, manures and other substances that are used to amend and fertilize soil.

Why Compost?

Compost improves a soil's ability to retain water and nutrients because the organic matter acts like a sponge, trapping moisture. Compost also contains an abundance of microscopic organisms that, when added to soil, improve soil structure and aid plants in nutrient uptake and disease resistance. Mycorrhizal fungi, which form a symbiotic relationship with plants, augment the root mass of plants while combating soil pathogens. Bacteria that feed on the organic matter produce a film around soil particles that cause soil particles to join, boosting soil permeability. Earthworm populations increase; further enhancing soil tilth and unlocking nutrients trapped in the soil. This enhanced soil permeability and moisture holding capacity leads to: deeper, stronger root development, stabilized soil moisture and nutrition, reduced compaction, run-off and flooding, less water contamination by excess nutrients, and a reduction in the need for supplemental irrigation. In addition, compost is a slow release fertilizer that provides an even and continuous release of nutrients all season long.

Composting household wastes also reduces the loads on landfills and the need for commercial fertilizers.

Types of Composting

Cold, Slow or Passive Piles - A pile of compost that is assembled and allowed to decompose slowly with little or no turning. Aerobic (using oxygen, hot) and anaerobic (using no oxygen, cold) decomposition occur and the overall temperature of the pile is cold.

Hot, Fast or Active Piles - A pile that is assembled then turned and aerated frequently leading to mostly aerobic decomposition. With this type of pile: raw materials break down faster under hotter conditions, weed seeds and soil pathogens are killed and a finished compost is ready to use in a shorter time.

Sheet Composting - Raw composting materials are spread over the soil surface and either left as a mulch or worked into the soil to decompose. This is what occurs naturally when leaves, needles and dead twigs fall each autumn and foliage dies back. All this organic matter slowly decomposes and returns nutrients to the earth.

Building a Compost Pile

Carbon to Nitrogen Ratio - This ratio is the proportion of dry, high-carbon materials to wet, high-nitrogen materials. The optimal proportions, by volume, are 25 parts carbon mixed with 1 part nitrogen.

Too much carbon slows down decomposition and nitrogen is depleted in the process. The pile does not heat up because there heat generating microbial activity is lacking.

Too much nitrogen leads to nitrogen escaping as a gas and causing unpleasant odors and usually is a wet stinking mess.

So add Green matter if the pile is cold and Brown matter (even shredded newspapers will work) if the pile is smelly or slimy.

Some Basic Ingredients

Other Additives - Native topsoil is a necessary ingredient of composting. Native topsoil is alive with the microbes that break down organic matter and decomposition will be minimal until they are added to the pile and begin to multiply.

To provide supplemental nutrients and create a more nutrient rich product, materials such as rock phosphate, greensand, bone meal, wood ashes, eggshells, seashells, blood meal and lime (limited quantities) can be added.

Assembly - Assemble the pile in 12-inch layers of Carbon and Nitrogen materials, other additives, a 1" layer of topsoil and a good sprinkling of water. Mix the layer with a pitchfork if desired, and begin another layer.

Moisture - A compost pile should be kept moist but not soaking wet with regular watering. Attention to moisture in the pile's center will ensure that composting is not slowed from lack of water. Locate the pile in the shade preferably on a layer of sand, gravel or brush to provide good drainage. Piles located in sunny locations can be shaded or watered more often to compensate for evaporation.

Air - To speed decomposition and minimize pathogens, air is needed throughout the entire pile. The increased aerobic decomposition will also raise the temperature of the pile, killing weed seeds. There are many alternatives to get air into the center of the pile. Turning the pile with a garden fork is probably the most common approach and great exercise to boot. Poke holes in the pile with a pry bar, auger, stick or compost aerator. Build the pile incorporating large sticks which, when remove later, admit air. Lay perforated pipe, layers of straw, brush or heavy cardboard tubes in the pile when assembling. Move the entire pile a few feet. Finally, you can buy composters that hold the compost in a barrel and with a quick turn of a handle rotate the material, mixing and aerating in the process.

Structure - A compost pile should be at least 3 feet high by 3 feet square to obtain optimum temperatures. A freestanding pile is the easiest but an enclosure can be used to hide the pile from view. Construct an enclosure from fencing, old skids, hay bales or concrete block. Just make sure that air can penetrate the sides. Peas, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins or Morning Glories can be planted around the pile to climb and obscure the enclosure. Plant pumpkins on an unfinished cold pile to shade the pile and in exchange, thrive in the rich nutrients of the finishing compost.

Speed composting (usually rotating bins) has the advantage of making finished compost in as little as 2 weeks but the extremely high temperatures destroy many of the beneficial microorganisms and uses up available nitrogen. If space is limited, vermi-composting is the answer. Using earthworms, usually "Red Wigglers", compost can be made under a kitchen sink using only kitchen scraps and shredded newspaper.

Many people utilize 3 composting piles in different stages for optimum efficiency. One pile contains finished compost, one is actively composting and one is in the process of being assembled.

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