Basic Pruning
Now and Then Everything Needs a Good Haircut
by Lisa Napolitano
Pruning is not mysterious but is actually simple if you understand and follow a few basic concepts.
- Make the job easy and limit injury to the plant by using the appropriate sharp tool:
- Hedge shears are for clipping light growth evenly
- Pruning shears (preferably bypass) are used to remove limbs up to ½ inch
- Lopping Shears are for branches ½ to 1 inch thick.
- A Hand Saw is the answer for branches over 1 inch thick
- Use a Pole Pruner for branches out of reach
- Do not rock or seesaw Pruners to achieve a cut, switch to a more aggressive tool
- Make mid-branch cuts ¼-½ inch above a bud, angled to shed water away from the bud
- The terminal bud will dictate the direction of growth and should face outward
- Large branches should be cut off 6-8 inches out from the trunk and then finished with a cut close to the branch "collar"
- Pruning sealer creates problems and is not necessary
- Angle the bottom of hedge out so that lower branches receive sunlight. The angle should be more obtuse on the shadier side
- General Pruning is best done in late winter or after flowering in the spring
- Remove branches growing straight up
- Some are know as water sprouts, sometimes a result of heavy pruning
- They tend to dominate branches and hog water and nutrients
- Weaken main branch crotch due to their disproportional size
- Compete with the tree's main leader
- Remove branches growing straight down
- They are weak from lack of light
- Generally they will begin to twist to the light
- Eventually cross with healthy lateral branches
- Remove one of two crossing branches
- Rubbing leads to injury, disease and death of both branches
- Remove the weakest branch or the one that is less desirable
- Thinning and Shaping can be done through June to allow time for pruning cuts to "heal"
- Better air circulation will reduce foliar diseases
- Concentrate nutrients and water to vigorous branches
- Admit light to interior branches
- Results in improved aesthetic qualities of form and balance
- Remove Dead wood and Suckers any time of the year
- Suckers sprouting from the trunk, caught early, can be "rubbed out"
- Remove as close to origin as possible, try to rip out root suckers
- Cut out dead wood leaving no stub to harbor disease
- Note:
- Cutting the main leader can result in heart rot especially in shade and pear trees
- Pruning from August to leaf drop can result in weak growth that can winter kill
- Prune in middle to late spring after new growth has begun
- Use the general pruning principals of the deciduous trees
- Prune out branches growing straight up (tree forms), straight down (tree forms), crossing or dead then thin out and shape for health and aesthetics
- Remove the main leader if diseased or infested then train another branch for the lead position (not applicable in shrub forms)
- Prune Pines when new growth is at the candlestick stage
- Some needleleaf evergreens will not sprout new growth from old wood (Pine and Spruce)
- Some exceptions are Yews (Taxus), Juniper and Arborvitae (Thuja)
- Pruning the terminal growth of evergreen branches will lead to a second flush of lateral growth resulting in a thicker, denser plant
- Prune just after flowering in the spring
- Shear for a formal look or selectively thin for a more natural look
- Remove dead, diseased or weak wood
- Remove spent flowers for heavier flowering next year unless fruit set is desired
- Pruning the terminal branches will lead to a second flush of lateral growth resulting in a thicker, denser plant
- Easily pinch tender new branch tips to stimulate the second flush of growth
- Do not prune after July to limit winter injury to new growth
- For a natural look remove spiky growth to a branch crotch below the outer canopy
- For significant reduction in plant size, remove up to 1/3 of the growth each year over a period of three years
- Latent buds exist that will develop with pruning or significant injury
- Cut back older leggy growth to admit light into the center of the shrub and stimulate the latent buds to grow
- Remove dead and old heavy growth in late winter
- General shaping and pruning should be done just as flowering finishes.
- For plants with desirable fruit like dogwood and viburnum, care should be give to limiting the removal of all flowering tips
- Shear for a formal look or selectively thin for a more natural look
- An occasional rejuvenating pruning will sacrifice the next spring's flowers but will stimulate new vigorous growth to break from the plants base
- Remove up to 1/3 of the growth leaving the younger more vigorous branches
- Shape and Prune in early spring just as new growth appears
- Remove any dead or weak wood
- Severe pruning may sacrifice flowers but will stimulate new vigorous growth to break from the plants base
- After bearing in the summer, remove all woody canes, leaving up to four strong, new, green canes per crown
- Best berry production is on one year, old wood
- These new canes will bear the heaviest crop the next summer
- More than 4 canes per crown will result in smaller, less tasty berries
- In late winter trim back last year's canes to 4 feet for ease of harvest
- Prune in late February before the sap begins to run
- Be sure to remove any grape "mummies" from last year, they harbor disease
- Limit each crown to four main branches
- Four branches can radiate from the crown in a fan
- Four branches can radiate laterally from a 4'foot tall trunk, two per side
- Prune each branch to four to six strong buds
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